Transducer cable broke. Repair or replace?? [Archive] - AZBZ Forums

: Transducer cable broke. Repair or replace??


Basschump
June 1st, 2009, 12:10 PM
I have a Hummingbird 565 on the front of my bass boat. Yesterday a friend of mine wanted to check out my trolling motor so as I was lowering it, the transducer cable got caught up in something and broke completely in half.
There are 3 wires. 2 of the wires are shielded (wrapped) in what looks like tin foil. The 3rd wire is on the exterior of the wrapped wires and then all 3 are wrapped in the plastic coating.
Is my transducer wiped out or can I connect the 2 wires, put the wrapped tin foil back around them, connect the outer wire and then put some electrical tape around everything????
I've had little work in the last year so if I can fix it rather than spending the $$$ for a new transducer, that would be great.

midwestbasser
June 1st, 2009, 12:41 PM
Best to replace. Just like satelite tv, once you start splicing, you start losing efficiency.

Fishermanjonk
June 1st, 2009, 12:51 PM
.....+1

canyonking
June 1st, 2009, 01:15 PM
Must replace!!

sealion
June 1st, 2009, 03:10 PM
Not trying to be the odd man out, but I did the same thing to my cable . I spliced the connections including the shield, and its works fine . I think radio shack carries splices. (my slice is not submerged)

Stinkbait
June 1st, 2009, 03:23 PM
as long as you splice it right you will only lose about 1db. Not much unless you have multipule splices.

:bong:

Basschump
June 1st, 2009, 03:55 PM
If I could splice it in a way that I can disconnect it when I want to, that would allow me to take the trolling motor off the boat with the transducer still bolted to the trolling motor. I've been wanting to find a way to do that anyway. Is that possible? Some kind of plug?????
I don't have a problem losing a little sensitivity. I usually just use it to see the temperature, bottom contour, weeds, etc.
I once had a trolling motor stolen off the boat at a Dairy Queen so if I could disconnect everything, take the trolling motor off and put it in my truck, that would be great. I don't want to get that stuff stolen again. That's an expensive fix.

Obewan
June 1st, 2009, 03:59 PM
You have nothing to loose trying to fix it yourself. That foil is wrapped anound the wire to stop any outside signals from being induced into the wiring that is feeding the signal down to the transducer and back up to the display. Before you splice the wires get a couple different sizes of shrink tubing. The first should cover the spliced area by 1 inch on both ends. The second should cover the first and extend beyond the ends of it by 1/2 inch. Before one placing onto the wires make sure that one slides over the other. Then place onto the wire cable being repaired. To splice the wires and keep the splices compact, I like to strip about 1/4 inch of wire, tin the ends with solder. Now slide over another piece of shrink tubing that will cover the splices completely about 1/2" long. Now lay the tinned wires next to each other side by side with the ends facing in the opposite direction (2 people doing this works well, one holding and one soldering) keeping the shrink tubing clear of the heat source. Now solder the wires together and bring the shrink tubing over the splices and shrink it down. If you can place a small piece of aluminum foil over the area of the exposed wires before shrinking down the shrink tubing to cover this area do so.

At work for a lot of years I have been soldering small 22-24awg wire onto the foil to make a ground for instrumentation wiring and communication wiring. Never had one fail.

Harbor Freight has a nice selection of shrink tubing that is very cheap. Also if your shring tubing has started to shrink before you want it to I have been able to run a small dental type pick gently between the shrink tubing and the wire and gently pull the shrink tubing back open enough to finish my work.

Obewan
June 1st, 2009, 04:07 PM
If I could splice it in a way that I can disconnect it when I want to, that would allow me to take the trolling motor off the boat with the transducer still bolted to the trolling motor. I've been wanting to find a way to do that anyway. Is that possible? Some kind of plug?????
I don't have a problem losing a little sensitivity. I usually just use it to see the temperature, bottom contour, weeds, etc.
I once had a trolling motor stolen off the boat at a Dairy Queen so if I could disconnect everything, take the trolling motor off and put it in my truck, that would be great. I don't want to get that stuff stolen again. That's an expensive fix.

Would the plug be out of the water? IF Yes, you could do that with the installation of a cannon plug. The wires would all have to soldered including soldering a wire to the tin foil. I would not use anything of lesser quality like a plastic AMP or MOLEX type connector for that application. It would be a litle more work but the outcome would be perfect for removing the TM when you want too. You can purchase a military style metal connector from Newark and everything you need for well less than say $50.00.

Basschump
June 10th, 2009, 10:52 AM
Great news!!! I wanted to go fishing yesterday so I just wired everything back together including the foil shielding and it seems to be working fine. For now, I just twisted all the wires together and insulated them with good old fashioned electrical tape but I'll find a good plug so I can disconnect it. I'll do it the right way but until then, it's working great the way it is.
A friend of mine that is an RV mechanic said there is a plug that is 3 wires and shielded available that is used for some high end RV camper jacks that should work so I'm checking into that right now. I'm hoping that will be the ticket. And to top it off, I can probably get them for nothing.
Works for me.