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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When the grease ooozes completely out even after 1 month after filling does it mean that they are bad? One more...How can you get the trailer not to slam(sounds like) when breaking to a stop? I think they are called surge brakes. Someone posted about bleeding them at one time, how? Thanks, Trailer Dummy

Premium Member
34,643 Posts
slot king

sounds like your seals are bad which in turn got your brakes wet with greese..



You will need 2 people.
If not, you will need allot of time and patience and a ratchet tie down - not a bungy cord that will stretch.

1. BLOCK THE WHEELS VERY WELL so the trailer will NOT MOVE even with pushing.
2. elevate the trailer tongue a little higher than the wheels - you may need to put a concrete block under the nose wheel to do this.
3. open brake master cylinder and check level, if low top up but not over full.
4. open bleeder screw on wheel cylinder on ONE WHEEL cylinder (the rear most axle on dual or tri axle)
5. push the trailer tongue in (towards the rear of trailer) AND HOLD IT IN!!!
(IF no one is around to help close the bleeder screw, then tie trailer tounge IN so it DOSE NOT extend out with a ratchet tie down while you complete step 6)
6. CLOSE the wheel cylinder bleeder screw.
7. now pull the tongue all the way out (forward) slowly (after relasing tie down)
8. Check the level and top up as needed
9. Repeats steps 4 - 9 until CLEAN CLEAR DOT # brake fluid comes out the bleeder. This will usually take about 10 repeats depending on the length of you trailer. Then move to the other (rear most) wheel on the other side and repeat steps 4 - 9.

DO NOT LET WATER/moisture get anywhere near the master cylinder or let the brake fluid level get low enough to suck air in!

If the drums are removed, replace the seals and repack the bearings.

Now is also a good time to adjust the brakes as well.
IF / When drum is on turn the adjusting screw to tighten untill wheel stops turning. Then back off adjusting screw about 10 - 12 clicks.

Hope this Helps!
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